Welcome to EverWanderWhy!
  • Home
    • About
  • Live
    • Caribbean Cruise >
      • 2019-12-23 - Saint Thomas
      • 2019-12-24 - Antigua
      • 2019-12-25 - Saint Kitts
      • 2019-12-26 - Barbados
      • 2019-12-27 - Martinique
      • 2019-12-28 - Trinidad
      • 2019-12-30 - Curacao
      • 2019-12-31 - Aruba
    • 2016 - NYC with Gwen
    • 2016-07 - Colorado - Maroon Bells >
      • 2016-07-01 - Maroon Bells - Denver to Aspen
      • 2016-07-02 - Maroon Bells - Buckskin Pass
      • 2016-07-03 - Maroon Bells - Trail Rider Pass
      • 2016-07-04 - Maroon Bells - Frigid Air Pass and West Maroon Pass
      • 2016-07-05 - Maroon Bells - Gunnison and Denver
    • 2016-05-28 - Tracy and Greg's Wedding
    • 2016-05-27 - Reunion
    • San Francisco 2016-02 >
      • 2016-02-19 - SF201602 - Flying to San Francisco
      • 2016-02-20 - SF201602 - Full Day in San Francisco
      • 2016-02-21 - SF201602 - Cycling Around San Francisco
      • 2016-02-22 - SF201602 - California Academy of Sciences
    • Northwest Road Trip >
      • 2015-08-05 - Northwest Road Trip - Seattle - Part I
      • 2015-08-06 - Northwest Road Trip - Seattle - Part II
      • 2015-08-07 - Northwest Road Trip - Mount Rainier - Part I
      • 2015-08-08 - Northwest Road Trip - Mount Rainier - Part II
      • 2015-08-09 - Northwest Road Trip - Portland
      • 2015-08-10 - Northwest Road Trip - Crater Lake - Part I
      • 2015-08-11 - Northwest Road Trip - Crater Lake - Part II
      • 2015-08-12 - Northwest Road Trip - Lava Beds
      • 2015-08-13 - Northwest Road Trip - Lassen Volcanic
      • 2015-08-14 - Northwest Road Trip - Redding
      • 2015-08-16 - Northwest Road Trip - San Francisco - Part I
      • ​2015-08-17 - Northwest Road Trip - San Jose
      • ​​2015-08-20 - Northwest Road Trip - San Francisco - Part II
    • Puerto Rico >
      • 2015-03-30 - Puerto Rico - Walking around San Juan
      • 2015-03-31 - Puerto Rico - Hiking within the Clouds
      • 2015-04-01 - Puerto Rico - Arecibo and La Cueva Del Indio
      • 2015-04-02 - Puerto Rico - Culebra Island
      • 2015-04-03 - Puerto Rico - Angeles Cave
  • Learn
    • Books, Podcasts, Videos
    • 2016-06-12 - NMG Top-Rope Anchors Course
    • Fermat's Room
  • Ride
    • Greater NYC Area >
      • 2016-06-25 - Bike to Poughkeepsie and Discover Hudson Valley
      • 2016-05-28 - Bear Mountain
      • 2016-06-04 - Longest Day and Cape May
      • 2015-10-25 - Tour de Bronx
    • Bike the US for MS
    • Morris Area Freewheelers >
      • 2016-06-11 - MAFW 2016 Revolutionary Ramble
    • New York Cycle Club >
      • NYCC 2015 B-SIG 17 >
        • 2015-04-11 - NYCC B-SIG 17 - Ride V to Nyack
        • 2015-04-18 - NYCC B-SIG 17 - Ride VI to Oyster Bay
        • 2015-04-25 - NYCC B-SIG 17 - Ride VII to Armonk
        • 2015-05-10 - NYCC B-SIG 17 - Ride IX to Bear Mountain and Cold Spring - Part I
        • 2015-05-10 - NYCC B-SIG 17 - Ride IX to Bear Mountain and Cold Spring - Part II
        • 2015-05-10 - NYCC B-SIG 17 - Ride IX to Bear Mountain and Cold Spring - Part III
  • Trek
    • Guide to Trekking
    • Palisades Interstate Park >
      • 2019-11-30 - Palisades Interstate Park Loop
      • 2019-11-16 - Palisades Interstate Park Walk
    • Long Island >
      • 2019-05-25 - Long Island Greenbelt Trail
      • 2019-03-30 - Cold Spring Harbor to Massapequa Traverse
    • New Jersey >
      • 2019-12-15 - Mount Tammany Loop
      • 2019-06-08 - Mount Tammany
      • 2019-05-18 - Freewalkers 2019 Big Walk
      • 2019-04-28 - EverWanderWhy Hudson County Historic Tour II
      • 2019-04-27 - EverWanderWhy Hudson County Historic Tour I
      • 2019-04-14 - Freewalkers Between Walk
      • 2018-04-17 - NJ Ultra Festival
      • 2019-04-07 - D&R Canal Trail - Trenton to New Brunswick
      • 2018-02-17 - Frozen Febapple
      • 2017-06-10 - Freewalkers 2017 Hudson River Loop
      • 2017-05-20 - Freewalkers 2017 Big Walk
      • 2017-04-15 - Freewalkers 2017 Between Walk
      • 2017-01-21 - Delaware and Raritan Canal Walk
      • 2016-08-13 - Lenape Trail
      • 2016-05-21 - Freewalkers 2016 Big Walk
      • 2015-05-16 - Freewalkers 2015 Big Walk
    • Catskills >
      • 2019-05-11 - Devil's Path
      • ​2016-09-03 - Catskills Trip
    • Shawangunk Mountains >
      • 2019-05-04 - Mohonk Preserve Rock the Ridge 50
      • 2017-05-06 - Rock the Ridge 2017
    • Hudson Highlands >
      • 2019-12-07 - Harriman-Bear Mountain 7 Peak Challenge
      • 2019-04-06 - Ramapo-Dunderberg Trail Traverse
      • 2019-03-23 - Suffern-Bear Mountain Trail
      • 2017-12-16 - Beacon to Breakneck Ridge Bypass
      • 2017-11-25 - Harriman North 7 Peak Challenge
      • 2017-05-13 - Bear Mountain 50K
      • 2016-05-15 - Bull Hill
    • New York City Greater Area >
      • 2019-03-16 - Shorewalkers 47th GMBW
      • 2018-03-03 - Shorewalkers 45th GMBW
      • 2017-06-03 - Shorewalkers 43rd GMBW
      • 2017-05-16 - Scouting Run
      • 2016-06-18 - Shorewalkers 40th GMBW
      • 2016-05-07 - Shorewalkers 2016 Great Saunter
      • 2016-02-27 - Shorewalkers 39th GMBW
      • 2015-10-31 - Shorewalkers 38th GMBW
      • 2015-05-02 - Shorewalkers 2015 Great Saunter
    • Pennsylvania >
      • 2018-03-31 - Naked Prussian
    • Long Path Project >
      • 2018-03-17 - Long Path - New City to Fort Lee
      • 2017-04-29 - Long Path - High Point to Wurtsboro
      • 2017-04-22 - Long Path - Lake Skannatati to Monroe
      • 2016-12-10 - Long Path - Nyack to Lake Skannatati
      • 2016-12-03 - Long Path - Fort Lee to Nyack
      • 2016-05-29 - Shorewalkers GWB to Nyack
    • Brooklyn Botanic Garden >
      • 2015-05-03 - Brooklyn Botanic Garden - Part I
      • 2015-05-03 - Brooklyn Botanic Garden - Part II
      • 2015-05-03 - Brooklyn Botanic Garden - Part III
      • 2015-05-03 - Brooklyn Botanic Garden - Part IV
    • Old Croton Aqueduct >
      • 2015-04-12 - Old Croton Aqueduct I - Part I
      • 2015-04-12 - Old Croton Aqueduct I - Part II
      • 2015-04-12 - Old Croton Aqueduct I - Part III
      • 2015-04-19 - Old Croton Aqueduct II - Part I
      • 2015-04-19 - Old Croton Aqueduct II - Part II
      • 2015-04-19 - Old Croton Aqueduct II - Part III
      • 2015-04-19 - Old Croton Aqueduct II - Part IV
      • 2015-04-26 - Old Croton Aqueduct III - Part I
      • 2015-04-26 - Old Croton Aqueduct III - Part II
      • 2015-04-26 - Old Croton Aqueduct III - Part III
      • 2015-04-26 - Old Croton Aqueduct III - Part IV

2016-07-02 - Maroon Bells - Buckskin Pass

Cold and uncomfortable in a truck  at 9000 feet, I slept okay considering the conditions. Brian, his border collie Tessa, and I started out around 7:30 AM. A short while later, we reached the trail head and, after another few miles, the magnificent Crater Lake.
The clear lake mirrored thick clouds blanketing the mountainsides. It was a sight of awe. After enjoying the lake and chatting with a few other hikers, we swung back onto the trail toward Buckskin Pass. Heading counterclockwise, we figured we'd tackle one of the toughest climbs first. If it was truly impassable, it would be better to find out sooner rather than be stuck on the other side. We hiked through forests and rocks and eventually reached a stream crossing, the first of many. We had to help Tessa on the water crossings but she ran literal circles around us everywhere else.
Great clouds of fog rolled in as the remnants of thunderstorms cheerfully challenged our rain jackets. Unfortunately a cloud was rolling into my mind as well. The amorphous discomfort caused by the high altitude was slowly taking shape as a painful headache. As the treeline receded behind us, so did any hope I had that the pain wouldn't get worse. Snow joined the patchy ground cover, alternating with areas of bare dirt and rock beneath our waterproof boots as we followed Tessa up the mountain.
Soon enough I was feeling as sick as I've ever been in my life. Brian and Tessa forged on ahead while I brought up the rear, walking slowly in a haze of pain. In places, walls of snow blocked  off the official trail, forcing us to find our own way up steeper sections around the obstructions. Brian was waiting for me near the top of Buckskin Pass. He said I looked dead, like a zombie. I politely refused his invitation to explore a higher section near the pass and opted instead to dig my head into my backpack, hoping in vain that the agony would subside. The realization dawned that the pain was mine to keep, and I turned my thoughts instead to moving down the mountain, in hopes that a drop in elevation might heal me. Brian's solo excursion seemed to drag on impossibly long. When at least he returned, he told me he'd gotten close to the neighboring mountain peak but couldn't risk scrambling up the unstable rocks. I'm pretty sure that last picture of me grimacing was in fact a genuine attempt at a smile.
Patches of snow covered the landscape like animal stripes. Their gentle white hues contrasted nicely with the rough colors of the unyielding rock beneath. Hundreds of thousands of wildflowers breathed the same mountain air as we did, but my appreciation was almost purely intellectual -- I was in one of the most beautiful places on earth and not enjoying it at all. A solo backpacker named Austin joined us and we walked together most of the way towards Snowmass Lake. I fell behind again and was forced to stop a few times when my head felt ready to explode. We had originally considered hiking farther, but I badly needed to make camp as soon as possible. Austin went ahead to a campsite closer to the lake, while Brian and I settled for a site about a quarter mile away. I struggled to set up my tent and immediately went to sleep while Brian walked down to check out the lake. Later we ate dinner together. All in all I probably only consumed about 500 calories over the entire day. Eating more just made me feel like vomiting. Having slept a few hours I was at least feeling better, and nursed a faint hope that my body might adapt to the altitude by the next morning.